Seathwaite - K Fellfarers Hut
January saw another excellent instalment of the CMC’s Haggis Meet series. Its success owed much to Bernie’s practised hand as head chef - after something like 25+ haggis suppers, he ran the tight and perfectly portioned ship that we all needed. I’m fairly certain that, without him, we’d have wound up with a spoonful of undercooked swede and 3 haggi each. A special mention, too, for Tonya and Aga’s raucous laughter, which I am certain buoyed all our spirits.
Almost everyone arrived fresh in Borrowdale at around tea time on Friday, having made it all the way north despite the high winds and storm warnings. I’m not used to these Friday morning departures, but I think I could get used to it. Bring on retirement.
On Saturday, while Bob and Peter ventured towards Glaramara, a large party set out for Scafell Pike. After the storm, the forecast still suggested wind but the chance of a pretty reasonable day out. And that it was. Helen, Gill, Tanya, Fritha, Bernie, Aga, John, Brian and I took the route past Styhead Tarn to Styhead, and then along the atmospheric corridor route, where we encountered our first snow. Not much, but enough to add some interest. Tanya and Aga had some fun in a knee-deep drift.
Just before the ascent to Scafell Pike summit, there was an option to head out and back to Lingmell. Everyone wanted to do this. I wondered if the storm’s profound shifts in atmospheric pressure had caused some form of madness. I can’t remember the last time everyone wanted to follow my suggestion to make a route longer. But it was well worth it. Another Wainwright bagged and some decent views into Wasdale and back to Styhead Tarn.
From here on, there was some decent snow cover. We joined the masses filing up Scafell Pike, many of whom appeared unused to moving on the white stuff. The group split here, with some opting to save energy and return the way we had come and others carrying on over the massif and down the other side to Esk Hause for the return. The summit of Scafell Pike was busy and viewless, but completely white and properly wintery. Those who continued on the high ground kept hold of the hibernal conditions for a while longer, even donning crampons for the descent.
Having returned via the corridor route with one half of the group, I decided to extend the day slightly with an ascent of Great Gable and Green Gable, then back over Base Brown. I’m glad I did. The views I got as the sun began to set were phenomenal, in particular the patches of light that caught on Moses’ Trod (the path round the back of Brandreth that leads towards the Honister quarries), as was the clarity of air that made Ennerdale feel at touching distance. I shared the descent with a young man who ran the garage in Ambleside.
The haggis supper that night went down a treat. Those who hadn’t experienced it before were, I think, sufficiently impressed that they’ll come again. Helen’s address to the haggis was a barnstorming performance, with an accent that meandered like a river of inclusivity amongst every county and country of the United Kingdom.
Sunday saw the group splinter more typically. Fritha and Aga set out early for Sourmilk Ghyll, to take in the summits of Green and Great Gable. Bernie and John followed later in the day. Brian went solo for the same summits, but with an approach via Gillercomb. (I have no other route cards to jog my memory - I think Gill and Helen also did Great and Green Gable?) Meanwhile, I found my way to the disused mines NW of Seathwaite and traversed the NE flank of Grey Knotts to reach the Honister quarries and the path over Fleetwith Pike. The descent off the nose of Fleetwith Pike gave some good views over Buttermere. From Gatesgarth, I forded the river and headed up to Littledale Edge, leading to Hindscarth Edge and eventually Dale Head. The wind was picking up as I made my way along here, and the clag was in. With the snow cover and my goggles on, I didn’t see much for some time, except a solitary fell runner. As I came off Dale Head towards its eponymous tarn, the snow turned to rain. I returned via Rigghead quarries and was sodden when I reached the hut.
With the rain set in, Monday was sacked off and we all got in our cars and drove south, in much calmer conditions than the northward leg.